Saturday, October 29, 2011


Region: -33°,42° to 10°,65°   Dataset: multi_1.glo_30m    All Times GMT (Zulu

Great Whites goes aerial.

Winter's at our door

Winter is slowly creeping up, its even let the sirens out a spot early, with a well groomed and long period south swell lighting up every south coast nook and cranny. I wish I could post the photos of the best spot on the day, but I can't the location must remain just that.

Harry Daily

Harry Daily hails from San Diego, California. He also goes by many other names such as Sketch Holiday and /or Harry the Hat. I met Harry a few years back when he visited England, wearing some seriously bohemian threads and sporting a handle bar moustache. Whilst he beavered away on a Switchfoot style drawing. A lady said "`Well done, absolutely fantastic." in a rather well healed English accent, to which this rather strange looking bundle of hair replied " Thank you, I always try my hardest.", which struck me as pretty comical.

He's a bit of a well travelled surf and skate artist whose work has not only been published in the switchfoot series but also used by many surf brands in advertising campaigns. Harry seemed more interested in pasties, music and the night life as far as I could tell though.

 Anyway with my house build erring towards the latter stages, it seems time to acquire a bit of art. So I phoned Golden Balls up at Driftwood Gallery, a supplier of surf art amongst other treasures and bought myself Adam and Eve has a pair of hand embellished limited edition prints, which look great. Adam's below, thanks to Driftwood Gallery for doing me a deal, that I was very happy with.

Monday, October 17, 2011

Bobby Martinez update.

I used to love watching Bobby Martinez at Mundaka. He just seemed to have been made for that wave, or any other big  barrelling left. I wouldn't necessarily be too interested in what many pro surfers have to say too often, "It was super fun" and "I'm stoked" can be used to answer any question it would seem but I was interested in why he wasn't around much this year. A few years ago I'd read how he was all jaded, hated the industry and thinking of going back to work for his Dad, which I thought was pretty .....left field.

 He's a Mexican in Californian who lives in a neighbourhood that has been described as a ghetto, whether rightly or wrongly, still it's a bit unusual compared to the luxurious beach pad of most. He has a few pit  bulls and loves his boxing.

 Bobby Martinez dropped out of the surfing tour cause he smoked so much weed he couldn't get his act together but apparently that's all in the past, back in 2005.

These day's he's taking some pot shots: (taken from extreme

Martinez on Kelly Slater’s legacy, and whether Slater should retire: “I don't know and I don't care. I just hate how he says he's not doing the tour and then he does the whole year. Obviously, he loves the spotlight, but to me I don't care what he does.”

Martinez on Kelly Slater’s quiver: “He's only riding fishes because he can't get a good shortboard. That's why I left Channel Islands.”

 Bobby Martinez has the best back tattoo I've ever seen.

 However Bobby looks like his time is up as a pro tour kind of surfer due to his live broadcasted rant at the US Open at Huntington Beach...... Not sure he was too articulate but hey he didn't say "It was super fun" or "I'm stoked" once.

Believe it or not he'd just smoked Bede Durbridge and was through to a surf with Senior Slater. Anyway he's been banned for a year for bringing the sport's image into disrepute, seems like a long way from the free thinking and uncensored days....

Something different from Pukas

I've always fancied a Pukas board. I loved the look of a friends plonker and I dig the fact that Pukas are a European surfing house with shaping at the forefront.....their new model The Mix looks pretty sweet while pouring over their boards I spotted these clips which got me thinking about shaping again and may be adding a few LED's
Leds by Pukas. Tiago Pires and Joan Duru from Pukas Surf on Vimeo

MUNDAKA 24H from on Vimeo.

Saturday, October 8, 2011

Viva la France

Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Right back at ya Shark!

 Just loved this board work.

La Graviere and the French WCt event is on!

 Some pretty good waves on offer already and even Dane Reynolds turned up.


For live feed and all the action click here.

Tuesday, October 4, 2011


Surf Photographer and Editor at Wavelength Magazine Greg Martin, recently reappeared after hanging out with some beardy weirdies in southern Wales who were transforming surfing through wood. What they hadn't counted on was that Greg (not exactly re known for his DIY exploits to put it mildly, just look at his lounge wall for gods sake) left without sealing the board in any shape or form.  I have a feeling the board will remain an unfulfilled promise for sometime to come.

 With all the roughly shawn timber on offer and fine opportunities for getting splinters I couldn't resist putting my 6 week old daughter through her paces to see how she'd get on. I have to confess there wasn't a moment when she just popped to her feet, grabbed a rail and then instinctively tickled the tube with her trailing arm. But she did look forward and arch her back......I'll keep her focused on the world title.