Tuesday, August 31, 2010


I've always wanted to go to Jeffrey's bay in South Africa because right hand point breaks are the waves I love best, I'm a regular footer and Jeffrey's Bay is the queen in the hive. So with that in mind the chance to win a competition which was pretty fun to enter, cost nothing and had a prize of being flown to J -bay for a heat with a friend of my choice and Occy, with no one else out was too much to resist.

If you fancy a go....don't because you might win and that would not be cool, you dig. But if you absolutely have to, then go to isurfbecause.com , think of your slogan and design your poster, jobs a good'un.

Break a leg and I look forward to our heat.

Sunday, August 29, 2010

Flat day activity

Its getting hard to take this blog seriously lately...so I just seem to love humiliating myself and Chav seems to like making Video's, with terrible music on about it so....


I committed and indeed intend to carry on committing adultery as I covet what rightfully belongs to another man, I even deliberately stalked her down and plundered her from his house whilst he was in bed under the weather, unable to satisfy her daily needs. Such behaviour I appreciate is low but no lower than I have sunk before. It even reminded me of another surfing friend's love that I romanced at a place called Senoritas. ... I am naughty but it's so nice.

 She is rather unfortunately named a B 52 bomber and is a little bit more volumous if not to say voluptious. She's Leggy at 6ft 8inches, girthy at 20 and a quarter wide, but respectably slim at 2 and ..I've forgotten. Where she makes up for her slight excess is in her triple hipped tail allowing for looseness and drive which is a refreshing change from my stiffer reefy semi gun boards I own. It was sheer joy to ride a thruster in smaller waves and actually not be over weighted...I have of course recently added to my quiver and it s getting harder to hide the now budding collection from the ball and chain as the quiver is pretty much taking over the hall....hmmmmm how can I lay my hands on one stealthily?!?!?

Unusually for me it is a locally made board by former European Champion Nigel Semmens.

Saturday, August 28, 2010

Friday, August 27, 2010

Newlyn to Penzance 1400 metre sea swim.

Los Tres Amigos, decided to enter their first swimming competition....well that's not entirely true, it transpires that Golden Balls (a.k.a. Justin Easton) is actually a full fledged international having represented Kenya as a nipper.

The water was cold, the nerves high and unlike journeying up and down the old municipal pool, 1400 metres looks a real long way when you look over it in its entirety.

All manners and niceties end as you enter the water, after that kicking, punching and rumours of eye gouging become common place.

Visibility under water meant that you couldn't see your hand, this didn't matter as my goggles were so steamed up that, I thought I was swimming next to a seal until its white foot kicked me square in the gob.

I was spent just reaching the start line, I attempted to start with the horn but found that I just got beaten up, so I lost 20 seconds just waiting for everyone else to move.
The sewage outlet half way along, spurred most of us on to the Penzance slip way and finish line, where as one tried to get to ones feet, cramp hit instantaneously. The removal of my goggles at the slip allowed me to realise a few key things. 1) There were quite a few people behind me...hooray. 2) Golden Balls was already on the railings chatting my bird up. 3) Andy McCreedy (a.k.a The Jock) and his bright pink swimming hat were nowhere to be seen. Placing me in the silver spot in los tres amigos.

Bilbo, the now infamous  dog and his proud owner also swam....respect.

There are worse places to swim but with leaky goggles I could have been in Somalia.

Talking of Somalia, nice boat.

It turns out that Golden Balls had opted for the quick start option and then didn't want to swim behind anyone and after vomiting a bit, came home in 34th place out of 480 odd with a time of just over 19 minutes, not bad for someone who hadn't done any training at all. I of course has a conscientious lifeguard have been swimming nigh on every day and pulled in at just a smidgen under 24 minutes. Whilst the Jock who despite being fit as a fiddle, but more of a land lubber type romped home in a most respectable 25 minute time.

Gloating Golden Balls, something else he's very good at with no effort.

Bet he'd need a few more minutes to get 17 stone of prime beef over the line.

Job's a good'un.

 Training for next years Newlyn to Penzance swim begins d'rectly and the first new comer to the Spinalsurfer competition is Greg Martin of Wavelength.....anyone else?

Tuesday, August 24, 2010

Thursday, August 19, 2010

The Go Pro

The Go Pro is making me feel even more amateur than I already consider myself. Thankfully this is not because of the footage of my poor technique, rather I simply have woefully failed to master filming on an electronic device that only has two buttons. Despite downloading the online manual and reading it as well as strapping it to a rock for hours of rock running filming on every setting it must be said that I have yet to pull off a single video or picture of any interest.  Now as Inkawaves previously owned the camera and successfuuly used it and every other Tom, Dick and Harry who has one, uses it without a hitch, this can only be human error. So I will persevere.

 Shout out for http://www.surfsurfsurf.co.uk/ who sent me a mounting kit for the Go Pro for 21 quid despite the fact I gave them the wrong address. I haven't choosen whether to put it on my fish or longboard yet, it all seems academic until I can actually use the camera!

Saturday, August 14, 2010

Teahupoo starts on Monday

According to Magicseaweed Teahupoo will be 8.5ft at 10 seconds on Monday morning when the World Tour blows into French Polynesia and one of the world's heaviest waves. Last year quite frankly they might as well have not bothered running the event as the wave never roared into live. What makes this year particularly compelling, is the new format. At the end of the Tahiti event only 32 of the top 44 will progress to the rest of the events. In other words guys who have been ticking along for years or who have had bad starts to the 2010 season are having their livelyhoods pulled from underneath them. So pumping hectic waves and desperate top pro's will be pitted against each other, you can watch the live action on this link and then clicking the "live" tab or click on "video" for replays. Tahiti time is:

Surfers who need to dig deep and go hard or face extinction may include: Feral Aussie veteran Mick Campbell and Coolie Kid Dean Morrison to name but a few. (full ranking here.)

 Being a bit of an old skool guy, I love these events where the old power guys like Knox, Perrow (he needs a result) step up. I'll be watching to see how Dane Reynolds and the new aerial wonder kids get on in heaving pits.....let the games begin.

The swell looks set to fade pretty fast through the week, so I'd of thought that they'll be getting underway as soon as.

Top picture: Laird Hamilton at Teahupoo

Middle picture: Shane Dorian giving it a go.

This Picture: As if the wave wasn't heavy enough, the flotilla of jet skis, boats, photographers all heighten this experience. Kooks and drop ins hey!

Friday, August 13, 2010

Derek Hynd and his finless surfboard.

Derek Hynd is one of surfings great innovators and explorers. Derek's ability to surf to such a high level as well as have such a fine understanding of board shaping and hydrodynamics puts him in a category which only the likes of George Greenough and Tom Wegener can really hold a candle to.

 Rumour has it that for over 2 years D.H hasn't ridden a surfboard with any fins. Instead of joining the throngs on the trail of the Polynesian Alaia he's been bringing the concept up to date, through the advances that PU blanks allow in bottom contours, D.H has been harnessing the reduction in friction from skegless boards and combining this with the hold,trim and turning properties of concave. The results may just be a window into the future. Derek Hynd we salute you!

Above is a Portrait of Derek Hynd by Katherine Hall

To the Right Derek holding one of his wonders pre J-bay session.

Below the result

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Rock Running

Well since becoming an RNLI lifeguard for the summer holidays things have been getting a little competitive in the Hayle Hut. A new one on me is rock running. Pretty simple really, line up a big rock(so big you can barely lift it on land is the go), swim down, grab it, keep as low to the floor as possible and run until the lungs burn and then let go....always do it with a friend.

 Now I've seen those Hawaiian boys doing it, in their boardies, with bright fish flying by and the visibility so good  you think there in the bath.......all I got to say is, they couldn't hack it in Cornwall, first problem is finding your rock from the surface.......Hawaiian boys are pussies....Local footage to follow, so you can check us out Shane Dorian.

Wednesday, August 4, 2010

Cornish Summer