Monday, November 29, 2010

Making shapes.

We just lost out on bidding for a house. It had a beautiful garage, I was dreaming of getting the sander out and making some shapes. This video inspired me a bit. Then we found out we didn't have a house...who cares about quarter of a million quid on a house, I was far more gutted about the garage though.

How to make a Wallako surfboard? from Ka nardo on Vimeo.

It's a lovely blog well worth having a squiz at.

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Scotish surfing.

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Where is this wave?

Wednesday, November 24, 2010

Surfing Brilliant Corners by Sam Bleakley

If you can't dazzle them with brilliance, baffle them with bull, is all too often a juxtaposition aimed at people who do things differently, I think. I've been guilty of thinking this. I wasn't sure whether this was going to the case when I saw the book. The shear scale of variety of vocabulary between the front cover and the first page, suggested things were not all as they seemed. Still a local legend who just seems to radiate positivity you've got to check it out right?

The surfing world has morphed into and out of art over the years, its simply too diverse to be defined. Thomas Campbell, the WCT and my average surf share less and less in common it would seem. It's hard to find common ground. One thing that has mesmerized me over the last few years is some of the more Art House photography that has emerged.

We have magnificent brains, but we use a great deal of our brilliance to keep ourselves stuck and ignorant, to keep ourselves from not shining. We are so afraid of our beauty and radiance and brilliance because it scared the adults around us when we were children.
Patricia Sun

 I've not been convinced the art of surf journalism has kept pace. "Blood, sweat and beers" was  as surf article that stuck in my head as being particularly tabloid in nature.... So obviously I purchased Brilliant corners. (click on link to get yours) in search for something new . It's not the cheapest book you'll come upon, but then again for the photographs of the ever brilliant Senor Callahan and the roads less travelled of Monsieur Bleakley it seems appropriate.

  Before the beginning of great brilliance,
there must be chaos.
I Ching

There was a bit of chaos in my mind when I read it unlike I think the author.I find it pretty strange to think like anyone but myself. I like Miles Davis though it gets so frantic I can also hate it, jazz has been known to saunter around my Ipod yet I am no aficionado. What I realised very early on in the book is that Sam Bleakley knows his way around Jazz, bands and its historiography. At times there was one too many snaps of a snare drum when I wanted to live a little more vicariously. But in a unique way I did. That's what dawned on me by the end. I'd actually had a bit of a peep into a buena henti and his relationship with the world which had been heavily laden by jazz enjoyment and surfing splendor. it captured me and it did it sneakily. I didn't realise how much I'd appreciated it till the end, then I felt sad but realised there'd be more from what that came from.

 This book is not the norm, it will not be everyone, but there is poetry and there is earnestness. The divide between  photography and journalism, just got smaller. it may be only  in my head but it was a serendipitous discovery indeed.

 Most interesting surf book I've read since Miki Dora's biography. Give it a whirl.

Sunday, November 21, 2010

Sunday, November 14, 2010

Selfish derision

I wish I could surf with my friend Leigh,
all ginger haired and knobbly kneed.
He'll ride his single fin and dance up and down
whooping and hollering a complete absence of frown. Japan, get Usueke and Floyd.
We'll need more wax and wood for the fire.
To warm all our hands, it'll take quite a while.
After friends have travelled so many miles.

Get through to Peru...State of Emegency planned.
We'll need Terry, Gustavo and Dan.
Better bring some local produce along.
It'll pay for the jaunt, Chav'll have a bong.

 And then there's the Kiwis and Aussies; Shuy and Owen,
Their poo stances and loud talk
Gwenvor will throng
Of course it could happen.

Still better have a think and rein it in.
With the whole shooting match they'll be quiet a din.
More importantly as a set rolls through?
What's the chances, will it be for me or you?

Saturday, November 13, 2010

The Triple Crown starts here.

The time in Hawaii is

The North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. Must be the most over publicized piece of  real estate the surfing world knows.

The reasons for that are simple. Surfing began there with the Polynesians, so it was the only surfing world (don't get me started on the Chimu and the Caballitos de Totora) Seecondly with a fetch half the length of the world and its volcanic nature (hence no continental shelf slowing wave power), the reefs of the North shore and quite simply hardcore. There power is allegedly (having never been or desire to) unsurpassed. Thirdly Hawaii is part of the US of A and there isn't a nation on this planet that can blow wind up its arse like it.....North'h. All in all as a competitive surfer, you ain't shit till you've gone toe to toe with some North Shore grunt and made a mark in the sand.

 The Triple Crown is held every year in Movember and December and comprises of three seperate competitions. The first is the Haleiwa pro, the second is the Sunset beach Pro and then the final event is the Pipeline masters. There all beautiful beaches and full on waves. The reason I love them is the passion. I can feel a rant coming on...........

 Those people who are called professional surfers are quickly sorted into two sections, show ponies and thorough breds. The waves are thick, heavy lipped heaving machines and instead of the guys getting out there 6'0 beachie board, the 8footers come out and some testosterone is brought back. I love it. The lines the artists etch on these huge moving canvasses, the soul bared for the audience to marvel at...well it's poetic.

 Anyway watch it Haleiwa has started it's waiting period and a huge swell approaches.


PS There will be all sorts of other competitions going on at the same time, keep your eyes peeled.

Friday, November 12, 2010


A few years ago I lost my much loved garage. Times move on and unless I parted company I would haven't have sampled the delights of South American surf etc.....but I surely miss that garage. The control of an area untouched by my partner and kids, a place where experiments arose out of plumes of smoke. A place where I sprayed my first surfboard and had enough left to get a bit "out there" on the walls. A place where saw dust and fibreglass fumes could mingle freely, far away from frowning eyes.

I can make fins, wooden, keel fins. Never a simpler or more satisfying surfing endeavour. Find the template you like, get some 9mm marine ply, cut out the shape with a jigsaw and then get the mask on and the random orbital out for some freestyling.

Three things led to failure on the last attempt. Firstly, the ply was poor quality and splintered. It would be so great to get some oak and teak ply or something which really adds strength and isn't easy to get hold of in the piddly quantities I want or can store.

Secondly, I lost concentration at a crucial time. After finishing off the first fin. I clamped up the second one and without thinking, sanded from the base not the tip, in 10 seconds the damage was done. I blame the third can of cider myself.

Lastly with no garage, there is nowhere to store excess wood, there is nowhere to leave things and come back to at a more auspicious time and the whole experience is just off key.

So we are house hunting at present and I'm gunna try and hang tough on the garage front.

Monday, November 8, 2010

Kelly Slater 10 times World Champ.

 So Kelly Slater 10 times World Champon hey....well I can think of no sport so dominated. It struck me as being somewhat creepy that the only guy to really put a rupture in his works was no other than Andy Irons who died the same week just aged 32.

 I'm going to say that judges are soft on the guy but...that doesn't go anywhere near far enough to discredit a man who surely holds the gratifying title of "Most successful competitives sportsman on earth"....please if you know some fat clay pigeon shooter whose being shooting better than anyone, don't bother me alright. He is.

 Good on ya!

Thursday, November 4, 2010

Problems in Peru for the ISA games.


The article below was brought to my attention by Inkawaves Terry but was written by Swellnet


 Shall Fight Them on the Beaches: Riot in Peru


Last Friday the International Surfing Association (ISA) wound up its week long competition in Punta Hermosa, Peru. The ISA Games are a teams event where surfers compete for their country rather than compete as individuals. The surfers collect points for placing and the nation with the most points becomes the ISA champion.
Last week it was the host nation, Peru, that collected enough points to call themselves ISA champions. It was a proud moment for the host nation but unfortunately the moment was tarnished by a serious riot following the mens semi-final.
Australia had two competitors in the semi, Mick Campbell and Drew Courtney, and if both got through to the final Australia would've accrued enough points to be crowned champion. Peru had one surfer in the semi and not long after the heat began it was clear he was operating under orders to take Drew Courtney out of the competition. The Peruvian didn't catch a wave the entire heat, instead focussing on blocking Courtney from riding waves.
Toward the end of the heat Courtney caught a wave and the Peruvian had an interference called against him. According to Courtney "a bit of push and shove happened and a few words were said out in the water".
When he got to the waters edge the fervently patriotic crowd thought the Peruvian surfer had been slighted and they confronted Courtney. Another Australian competitor, who watched the incident from the roof of a nearby house, said a 100-strong crowd of locals surrounded the Australian. With no security to quell the situation it quickly became violent.
The first thing to hit Courtney was a bottle. He was then punched in the head a number of times by individuals who fled back into the crowd. When rocks started to be thrown Courtney had to use his board as protection.
The Australian team physio rushed to the surfers aide and he was also hit by a large rock in the shoulder. Team coach, 1988 world champion Barton Lynch, stepped in and tried to calm the crowd but had to retreat when they turned on him too.
By now the crowd had grown to 500 and Courtney made his escape by running along the rocky shoreline and through a hole in the scaffolding of the competitors area. The local police force arrived with sirens on yet no officers got out of the car. ISA security, clearly outnumbered, also did nothing.
The Australiam team house was situated just ten metres from the competitors scaffolding but to get there would've meant Courtney leaving the safety of the competitors area and running the gauntlet of the angry mob. He stayed in the competitors area. Much of the anger was then directed at the Australian house and for fifteen minutes the crowd surged with more violence likely.
Tensions began to ease however, and surfers from the Peruvian team made their way into the Australian house offering apologies for their countrymen's behaviour. The Peruvian surfer that blocked Courtney in the semi-final was succesful in keeping him out of the final so Peru were crowned ISA champions.
According to sources the victory was hollow for the Peruvian surfers. Although that wouldn't have been obvious from reading the absurdly one-sided press release written once competition was completed. That press release, clearly written by someone involved in the Peruvian team, made no mention of the violent infraction although it did include this quote by ISA founder, Fernando Aguerre, "Today we present to the nations of the world a vision, a unified hope of surfing for a better world".
The ISA Games offer gestures of international unity such as the 'sharing of the sands'. As an organisation it has much to offer, yet the riot - the way it was handled, and the way it has been covered up - leaves a serious black mark against them.
Of great concern, especially for the Australian team, is that the ISA junior world championships are due to be held in Punta Hermosa, Peru, early in 2011. Following the riot coaches from France, Tahiti, Great Britain and South Africa expressed their concern about sending their junior national team to Peru.
In response to the riot, Surfing Australia CEO, Andrew Stark, said he is "insisting that the ISA provide a safe and secure events for our teams to attend". Stark also said that they "will only send the Australian Junior team to Peru next year if we can guarantee that the necessary security measures are in place and we can be assured that the team will be safe".
As for Fernando Aguerre, he has made it his life's work to get surfing into the Olympics and the ISA is his vehicle for doing so. Friday's deplorable behaviour may prove to be a setback to his goal, yet how he responds will be a good gauge as to whether he is capable of achieving it

Passing of a Surfing Legend: Andy Irons