Monday, April 23, 2012


It's so cold still in Cornwall, that despite the alleged onslaught of spring, which has largely taken the shape of driving winds and rain, the dolphins have had enough too and have been attempting to leave the frigid waters in search of warmer climbs.

Saturday, April 21, 2012

Pasty Tax March!

As you may have heard the British Government rather than sort out millionaire scoundrels, tax dodgers, and dole bludgers etc, has decided to attempt to reclaim our national deficit by taxing pasties ..............This is tantamount to taxing surfing so I implore all to take to Falmouth Moor on the 29th of this month to highlight the governments dangerous move and of course to celebrate all things pasty!

Knob head!

 Could pasties bring down a government? It's been around longer, cheaper and serves a purpose that's obvious for all to see.

Monday, April 16, 2012

RIP Michael Peterson

MP died on the 27th of March 2012, reknown for being in a class of his own until his battle with schizophrenia took over from competitive surfing, the legendary natural-footer had been suffering from diabetes caused by his schizophrenia medication for some time. He had a seizure and died in his bed at home aged doubt he will be missed by many but most especially his family.

Tsunami in Indo 2012

I believe this tsunami followed the quake last month, although much smaller than other tsunamis of late, its a reminder.

 The latest quake was a rubbing of two plates, less likely to cause large sea displacement unlike a head on, forcing under of a plate which is where large water displacement happens. Still...there's no way of knowing at the time of the incident.

 Head for higher ground.

I believe this video was taken in

Friday, April 13, 2012

Surf trip firsts.

 My first ever surf trip, with Tomo and Dinners. Bit of a clash of styles really. Tomo (seated) was a pot smoking, van dwelling, 6ft skateboard riding longboarder with a penson for all things experimental, whilst Dinners was a rugby playing, pasty eating bastion  of conservatism.....good times on the Gower though riding mini mals and skating.

 My first surf trip to Australia and my first and last commerically organised surf trip. From Sydney to Byron bay up the East coast in 10 days, so much fun. We camped and surfed loads of right hand points, swapping boards and beers the whole way up. Met some uber cool Sydney girls who had me to stay for a week when I got back to Sydney in their swanky pads...good times.

My Second surf trip to Oz (which lasted a year!) with a non surfing Castles. Unfortunately for him he got a little burnt on his first day. Having flown from London to Cairns, I told him I was in Byron and he duly got off his 20 plus hour flight straight onto a 20 plus hour bus journey, only to find I had chased some waves elsewhere, leaving him knackered with nothing...he simply fell asleep on the beach for 12 hours straignt......he fainted shortly after this photo was taken!

Still after the fainting we woke the next day to find, Main Beach Byron was pretty good which is a relatively rare event.....Castles took this photo.....from the shade.

 First Japanese surf trip with Akemi.....the waves were pretty good although we were greated by some pretty far out locals who forbid us playing music in the car park....most un japanese.

 First Japanese surf with the JET program (teachers), the first of many, which taught me that you can live on a beach in some style with a little bit of thought.

First Surf trip to Bali with Usueke....memorable for the fact neither of us could speak each others language...tricky especially when you consider the cultural differences. Usueke had only been on flag following japanese organised tours before and when we arrived at losman in the middle of nowhere with hours to kill waiting for tides etc, he didn't have a clue how to just chill out. Ironically over the years I learnt enough Japanese to repeat this trip many times....Usueke got so good at chilling he tried to quite his job and go walkabout.....the Onishi Town Mayor laid the blame squarely at my feet for leading a son of Onishi down the wrong path ....nearly fifteen years later usueke is still an avid surfer, though sadly our paths have not crossed for some time.

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Penzance boy drops in at Pipe

Eddie Read.. Penzance raised lad currently residing in OZ, has been chasing waves on his sponge for years both competitively and free surfing, and he rips. I was totally stoked to see him in a "Surfer" magazine video clip......yup that's Eddie Getting shacked on 2.20 in....totally dropping in on the guy deep in the hole! No harm done, all made it!

 Eddie Went.

Monday, April 9, 2012