Thursday, October 21, 2010


I couldn't help but love a blog I stumbled on today, it's and here are some of the entries I found I enjoyed.

Monsterboards from Matthew McGregor-Mento on Vimeo.

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

Greg Webber Fatburner and stuff.

There are two boards I've always wished to own. The first is a 6ft 10 inch Channel Island Black Beauty and the second is a Greg Webber Fat Burner. These boards could be ridden well by big boys. At 6ft 4 in and 16 stone, I'm not your average shortboarder for sure. For the last few years I've been riding fishes and have nothing but praise for Steve Lis and his fellow kneeboarders who designed them through the 1960's. You know, whilst on the topic you have to mention a few of the many great fish pioneers such as Skip Frye, Rich Pavel and Dick Van Straalen. And to be honest if Tom Curren hadn't hopped off that boat in Indo in 1994 when the swell was making and jumped on a fish, the world might have forgotten about the fish and beloved surfing might be dying with matchstick boards and that terrible music.

The music is terrible as is the footage but half way through this section the fish was reborn and with it bigger guys began to see an alternative to longboarding or missing waves.

 The fish rebirth naturally led to quad fins, no finer example here than the Pavel Speed Diallers. The speed and unique characteristics of the set up, brought back larger tails.....more good news for the big guys. The whole Clarke Foam debacle made alternative more buoyant materials accessible too. You can see where the big guys are getting some love from here by now.......

 However , a solid PU construction thruster for men packing a bit more explosion in their suits has never truly been under my feet, that is of course until the Webber Fatburner! I've heard all the patter going, "Simon Anderson is a big guy his boards are for your gang".....blah blah, well the proof is in the pudding and his XFC model sits in my room, a bit like all warships after the dreadnought superseded all that went before it, eclipsed by light years. Greg Webber himself is quoted as saying "its the best model I've ever shaped". And as you can now tell I'm a devotee.

Every surfer who owns one adores it, I had to have one and yet....the 450 pound price tag has kept me as a distant admirer, until .....shameless plug coming.......Down The Line...gave me a staggering 150 pounds off......minus a near miss divorce.......I've never looked back. The distribution of foam, rocker and ...just everything has enabled me to generate speed and knock it off with solid turns, access the top part of the wave far more easily and allowed me to draw lines I simply couldn't before. Where it differs from my lovely quad is that middle fin and tail shape allows pivot and turning arc in a different way, there is a place for both in this cavernous heart. What is most noticeable apart from its voluptuous nature are the appreciable set of double concaves running through it, reminding me off a more moderate Brett Warner I lived and swore by in Bali.

 Surely the quiver can take no more?!?!? I haven't got a Black Beauty though...still in the world of Cornish beach breaks it's hard to envisage its function.

Monday, October 18, 2010

'ear it!

I'm going deaf. I'm sure I don't hear as well as I used to. As a teacher as well as a surfer I'm not entirely sure I mind either really. I've never liked noise much and I adore peace and quiet so may be I shouldn't worry too much. I don't but......

 The other day my girlfriend came back with some ear candles from the local Chinese herbalist, set fire to them and stuck them in her ears...I was intrigued. I had visions of salt and seaweed oozing from my ear and perfect harmony with my surroundings restored. I decided to have a go.

 The herbalist who spoke little English and was short and kind of quirky, quickly talked me into a "package" and before I could say "Ni Hao" I was lying in a private cubicle with a Chinese octogenarian at the helm. The candle was burnt and stuck in my left ear and apart from the odd sensation of having a mini Olympic torch stuck in you ear with a disconcertingly large flame, things went pretty smoothly.

 It was the right ear when things started to go wrong........... the hole was simply a lot smaller and the torch struggled to make its way down to any depth in my ear canal. Not only that it was all bony and pretty sensitive.....I started to have a vague recollection of what was up.....

 About 4 years ago I had been to a doctor about something to do with me ears and he'd got his kaleidoscope out and informed me I had "surfers ear" and had lost about 40 % of my right ear canal as the bony growth had taken hold. I'd long since forgotten his words but I do seem to remember him telling me that cold water is the culprit and ear plugs and twat caps the solution.

 It seems that cold water surfers are 6 times more likely to suffer from it and warm and dry is the only way forward. It can lead to lack of immunity to infection and obviously loss of for this little surfer the blu tac is coming out and the twat cap. The most drastic cases involve drugs and saws and ear thanks.

For more information on surfer's ear click hear.

Friday, October 8, 2010

The Stretch

 don't think I posted anything from the Life guarding this a few shots. Hayle river mouth is famous to young families from the north who to be fair will brave the waters even when its over caste and raining. However no matter whether rain or sun they don't like to get anything above the knee wet, Four frustrated lifeguards make the most of the situation. Top Left is Craig, paddle boarder and clubby. Next up the Hoff. Followed by Phil the fish Newman, the man is faster than an otter in the water and finally Jack the lad. On my first day on the job, as my long term girl strolled up to HQ, after 6 hours of no action Jack stated "look at her she's gagging for cock"...things continued in a similar vein.

Jack was a keen surfer who had issues about being undergunned.

Phil the boss was a greyhound of a man, just under 400 metre freestyle qualification t seemed like. I'd definitely want him to save me.....

Chin ups with the First Aid kit on where a favourite as was the rock running.

A glorious way to spend the summer.

The Go Pro

I think  it's fair to say I haven't quite got the hang of it yet and with trialing about 6 boards at present there may be a slight time delay on getting it nailed.

Autumnal Penwith