Monday, July 18, 2011
My new passion
Still out of the water, over two months gone and by last week I was feeling pretty terrible. I decided to make a huge U turn in thought. ....I can't swim or put any real pressure on my shoulder at all......I was desperate......really desperate....I'm sorry......I took my step kids bodyboards and headed for the shore dump.........It was good to see the boys down the car park, but none of them would park near me anymore, most ignored me and talked about me behind my back, some pulled up and shouted abuse at me through the car windows....One of my "better" surfing mates, simply whispered "why?" as he slithered past, I sensed he was welling up due to his trembly voice. Upset I hit the waves and creased both boards in a couple of waves....I could hear them sniggering as I did the penguin waddle in my fins through the shallows................never again I swore.
I knew I had to keep getting in though. When I spotted my new stick I knew things had changed, no one abuses a bellyboard....I started off in the sun in the small waves of Porthcurnow, instantly the chicks came flocking and that pure uncluttered joy of slidding down a face returned....pure and simple.
Since then I've been every day in all sorts of rubbish having a complete blast. I go out back, take sets and use fins now.....Then I found out about The World Belly Board champs in Chapel Porth in September...so I need a costume and to practice....dare to dream my friends.
The World Belly Boarding Championships 2010 from Sideways Cornwall on Vimeo.
Posted by Edward Lockyer at 5:28 AM