Hi Eddie !
Im reading your blog and its nice.
I recomendo to post bbrdrs articles including u riding a wave
surfers sucks jajajajajjajajjaja
im gonna sento u some pics to post it in your blog.
Log on to my site http://www.lacasadejoseantonio.com/
(all of the below photos were attached)
The last message I got over a year ago from Jose Antonio read:
het eddy thats a ridicoulous name 4 your article@ spinal surfer.Please do a bbrd one !
do you have your membership card of the new kids on the block band?
The world is not so small, I thought having read my message from Jose Antonio. Although I have been lucky enough to spend some weeks in their warm house and spent afternoons in his hammock, under pretty much the only tree in Lobitos trying to escape the vapid heat, it couldn't feel further away today.(It's 10 000KM between Lima and London at the best of times)
With a shoulder injury, that after over 3 months, shows no sign of healing and therefore no chance of swimming or paddling, the Atlantic seems distant never mind the Pacific. My first child is due to be delivered next Thursday, by C section and we are also trying to build a house......I think that surfing is meant to literally come in waves. Before I got the message the tide was ebbing and there was a high pressure blocking the force of nature. It's at times like these, dressed in a tie and dodging writing school reports as well as a mass of paperwork, that one needs an email from their Jose Antonio.
He's there at his home, the swell in the pictures is the swell he is looking at. You can hear and feel the big swells in the bunks there. Jose will have been up before the sun and slipped on his flip flops and gone down to the point, surfed El Hueco by himself or with a couple of other experts and then if he's lucky and there is a guy like me in the house, we'll have drunk the fresh filter coffee the traveller brought with him and spent some down time waiting for the trades to die off in the evening for the glass off. Taken the mickey and learnt from the others experiences and then take the mickey some more. He's making progress too, check out his website, it's amazing. What he has built out of a deserted shack in a deserted town in the middle of nowhere, right next to one of the best wave set ups around is impressive. A man who has lived his life in what he believes is right and has made his life about a place he holds dear. He never could sleep when there was a bit swell for El Hueco...good on him
I guess the tides about to start pushing now and hurricane seasons in September so I better go back and see about this shoulder and get ready.
For previous articles on Lobitos click: