Friday, December 2, 2011


As I  struggle with a whole host of injuries, building a house and the water temperature dropping like a stone, I had a little think about waves and stories that inspired me when younger. Sunset beach, Hawaii the old proving ground of the North Shore, where big balls and boards ruled. It was interesting to see Dane Reynolds, new skool dog showing how to use a rail and do things classy yesterday....made me smile.

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