It kind of got me thinking a bit this piccy. I'm glad to know that that step I feel when a wave sucks out from out of me is actually real, you can see it right under him. Where me and this guy difer is belief, he believes he will make it, well not this wave but may be the next. I on the other hand, know I wouldn't and would have long since adopted "wipe out pose and face"
Great shot, bet he got a cold flush or worse on this.