Old Faithful sings
The only person who I've heard who surfed this wave was a lad named Wilson, who lost his battle with cancer this year in his early 20's. It was all for him on this day. RIP
The most lined up I've ever had it. Although an undoubted secret spot the amount of non local surfers who visited on this day and the lack of local readership of my blog, have led me to think that its okay to post this shot...I think. It never breaks if its not grey.
South swells mean different spots break....Danger bay AKA Three Tunnels not quite firing enough for Greg's stick.
Young love.
Young lovers on a spring tide and a south swell.
Mums on the run.
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