Sunday, November 27, 2011

The Perran Pipe


November 4mm, 9 ft 4" log, apply sun and small clean swell......good times.


This is my signature move "walk like an Egyptian" is how I like to look at it.


If I could just get one hand on the hip I think I could add "I'm a tea pot, tall and stout" to my manoeuvres.


Dave Muir from Sennen Surf centre and Lekker fame was kind enough to give me the photos despite having far more proficient surfers to snap etc, so big thanks there. Dave's amazingly proficient yet chilled surf school is up for water sports provider of the year, so give him a vote, it only takes 1 minute at http://www.demographix.com/surveys/2KVG-RM5T/8WX72K4F/

Sunday, November 13, 2011

Is this the biggest wave ever ridden?



Nazare is a Portuguese big wave spot. It's a Geographic freak and one of only a handful in the world. The underwater canyon is actually a gap in the continental shelf which allows waves to reach close to the shore without the friction effect of continental shelf and actually serves as an intensifier.

 Garrett McNamara was the big ball bloke who may have etched himself into the record books with what looks like a 90 foot  bomb. Good to see Europe getting in on the XXXL scale. Al Mennie from Ireland and Andrew Cotton from the UK were also present at the session.

The Cribbar has been breaking here in Autumnal Cornwall and here's some footage from an October session.

Friday, November 11, 2011

"I have a dream!"

Thursday, November 10, 2011

Recent times


Old Faithful sings
The only person who I've heard who surfed this wave was a lad named Wilson, who lost his battle with cancer this year in his early 20's.  It was all for him on this day. RIP


I'm no lover of winter and dread the onset of the dark, cold and the grey but Autumn is a blessed time to be a surfer in Cornwall. Some pictures "lest we forget."

The most lined up I've ever had it. Although an undoubted secret spot the amount of non local surfers who visited on this day and the lack of local readership of my blog, have led me to think that its okay to post this shot...I think. It never breaks if its not grey.

 South swells mean different spots break....Danger bay AKA Three Tunnels not quite firing enough for Greg's stick.



 Sunny Pipe in November

A Cornish surf shack, a converted pump house from the mining days...greets the new swells.
Sunbathing whilst it lasts.
Young love.
Young lovers on a spring tide and a south swell.
Mums on the run.